The principle purpose I needed to carry designer Luke Walker onto our sequence of talks was his expertise working at each style manufacturers (Dunhill, McQueen) and basic menswear (Dunhill, Drake’s).
I like what he does at his personal model, LEJ, and we discuss that in the direction of the top. However he has a selected perception into these two sorts of firm, and the way the design course of works at each, that I’ve by no means heard earlier than.
It’s simple for customers of conventional menswear to be cynical about style. It’s all overpriced, for individuals who wish to put on a label, to promote fragrance and purses. A lot of that’s true, and Luke talks about how that has come to dominate style within the years he’s been working.
However there’s additionally lovely menswear, that Everlasting Type readers may love in the event that they have been uncovered to it. Materials you by no means see anyplace else; distinctive colors and yarns; concepts of proportion and design.
Luke talks about an unbelievable velvet jacket he saved from his years at Lanvin, in regards to the work of Haider Ackermann at Berluti, and about Katharine Hammett chopping up items of classic clothes.
It is a world we by no means discuss on PS, and it was nice to listen to about it first hand. In direction of the top we come full circle and discuss how design labored on one thing just like the Video games Blazer at Drake’s, when Luke was there.
I hope you take pleasure in it. Apologies for the occasional audio points, however be careful for the query on the finish about chest hair.
The following speak, in mid-November, can be introduced quickly.
Earlier interviews within the sequence:
