Some previous, some new on this yr’s round-up of Autumn/Winter merchandise. These articles are a pleasant solution to point out manufacturers on the sting of our radar (Bally) in addition to to debate new releases from favourites that wouldn’t in any other case get a full article (eg denims at Bryceland’s).
They’re additionally a pleasant solution to revisit manufacturers we haven’t mentioned for some time, comparable to P Johnson. Typically it seems like manufacturers solely get one alternative to be coated on PS, however everybody evolves and adapts over time, particularly comparatively younger manufacturers.
If anybody has any detailed questions concerning the merchandise, together with factors like sizing, please do ask within the feedback.
1 Wythe washed-flannel shirt, additionally at No Man Walks Alone
£159
Wythe simply opened their first retailer, and we visited final week once we had been in New York. Though nonetheless unfinished, founder Peter Middleton’s Americana-driven imaginative and prescient was very clear, with Navajo blankets on the partitions and a pair of previous cowboy boots hanging on the door. In reality it makes you marvel why there aren’t different American manufacturers competing with RRL for this area, given how related the casual-but-collared vibe is.
The garments are sometimes slightly softer and lighter than comparable items from Japanese manufacturers we cowl, or the likes of Bryceland’s. However that is deliberate and the costs are relatively decrease – with this flannel £159 in comparison with over £200 at lots of these manufacturers.
Tright here’s additionally a extremely pretty eye for color, most clearly within the shirts like the pink/gray above. It’s surprisingly uncommon to see these flannels in color combos that really feel each engaging and flattering, however the Wythe vary actually nails it. You’re feeling Peter’s expertise on cloth growth at Ralph Lauren maybe coming by way of, additionally on uncommon however nice colors like this pretty faded-green sweatshirt.
I point out No Man Walks Alone as a result of they’ve stocked Wythe for some time, and just lately arrange an EU retailer that’s simpler for these in continental Europe to buy from.
2 P Johnson quarter-zip rain high
£315
P Johnson closed their bigger London retailer some time in the past, however they’ve a neat little showroom in Fitzrovia on Percy Road, which is by appointment solely. It’s value a glance, each as a result of the informal aspect has expanded since we coated them six years in the past, and since a few of the tailoring has modified – extra relaxed, much less commonplace Italian, maybe extra P Johnson.
As with Wythe, this isn’t the standard of a Connolly or a Personal White, however the costs replicate that and there are some actually properly designed items. My favorite is the quarter-zip pictured above, which has a pleasingly tight waist and massive physique. It’s easy however flattering.
The shiny artificial they’ve because the default isn’t to my style, however there are matte choices and a chance to make to order with Loro Piana Storm System (each at greater costs). In reality it’s value noting that every thing in London aside from shirts, knits and footwear is MTO. Which means it’s a must to wait 4 weeks, however it additionally means you’ll be able to choose your physique and sleeve size, in addition to the fabric.
3 Colhay’s cashmere alpine quarter-zip
£595
Talking of quarter zips, one in all Colhay’s three new designs this Autumn is the one quarter-zip knit I believe I’d put on. I’ve at all times had a prejudice towards them, I believe as a result of I see so many guys put on them poorly, with a stiff costume shirt for instance. One thing with out the {hardware} appears extra elegant.
However this model has a better collar, extra akin to a rollneck, and a deeper zip, reaching to the center of the chest. It makes a characteristic of it and, like a deep V-neck, appears extra flattering. In a very nice, heavy cashmere rib, it feels sporty and you may see the reference to previous snowboarding knits. As ever, I additionally just like the Colhay’s deep, muddy colors, such because the olive inexperienced pictured.
4 Bowhill & Elliot velvet slippers
£295
I’ve appreciated the thought of good slippers with extra informal issues like denims for some time – which I’m positive gained’t shock individuals; it’s hardly new. However more often than not the combos weren’t for me, whether or not it was the embroidered initials, the brilliant patterns or the Grecian model. So I believed I’d attempt one thing plainer, like this straightforward black velvet from Bowhill & Elliot.
They’ve labored out effectively – I went for the Albert-style slipper with a crimson lining and Venetian rounded tongue (relatively than the usual sq. one above). They need to be made to order, however a lot of the Bowhill vary works like that anyway. Good with some darkish denim and a easy T-shirt or shirt.
£1500
Bally isn’t a designer model that will get talked about a lot, however they’ve an attention-grabbing mixture of basic kinds and extra vogue ones, and are fairly good worth. The leather-based jacket right here, as an illustration, is made in a extremely pretty calfskin, a contemporary relatively than basic or fashion-y reduce, and is £1500.
The vary consists of loads of logoed hoodies and T-shirts, plus some items which are in all probability too showy for many readers – like a full-length green-leather trench. However there are additionally garments that sit in between, comparable to a plain leather-based bomber in an exaggerated match, or a boldly striped knit. And the standard is constant. Should you like the thought of exploring completely different kinds however discover most vogue manufacturers off-putting, Bally is value a glance.
£269
Bryceland’s just lately introduced out an indigo denim within the reduce of the black denims I’ve, the 933. It’s a extremely pretty match: mid-rise verging on excessive, beneficiant within the thigh and seat so it matches lots of guys, after which tapered within the decrease leg.
The brand new ones, the 133s, are made in a left-hand twill relatively than the extra commonplace right-hand used on denim, which is a contact smoother (although not one thing you’d doubtless discover until it was identified). As is at all times the case with materials, the weave solely tells you a lot, and it stays the case that almost all left-hand twills are softer and extra mainstream – simply not these.
The denim can be extra secure and shrinks much less, so I ended up with a measurement 31 in comparison with the 32 I had taken within the black 933.
7 Canons slide-handle portfolio
£1700
I visited the stunning workforce at Canons bespoke footwear final month and can be overlaying them (like Wythe) in additional element quickly. For now on this format, I simply needed to say their leather-based items, that are completely made – as in, precisely what you must count on from English top-end product: hand-sewn, bridle leather-based, oak-bark tanned, with solid-brass {hardware}.
Plenty of the English shoemakers used to supply comparable top-end leather-based items, however for the reason that Tanner Krolle manufacturing facility closed down, there’s much less of it about. Dunhill additionally does much less at its Walthamstow manufacturing facility, and the brand new Swaine merchandise are good however not hand-sewn.
£445
Though I don’t put on them a lot (the closest factor I’ve is a giant Actual McCoy’s one that’s extra coat than fleece) I perceive why fleeces are so widespread for guys on the weekend. Midway between a sweater and a jacket, they really feel sensible but as delicate and cosy as a knit.
I may think about Everlasting Fashion readers not wanting the identical Patagonia as everybody else, and maybe one thing with out the branding. This Nanamica mannequin, at the moment at Trunk, is sweet in that regard: darkish menswear navy or delicate beige, in a mohair/wool/nylon combine that’s sensible and delicate, however advantages from not having all of the nylon of most fleeces.
Beneath, the Wythe retailer in New York
