Surrounded on three sides by stately snow-capped Alps, the Piemonte (Piedmont) is the birthplace of the Gradual Meals motion and residential to hazelnuts, white truffles, plin pasta, grissini, fabulous wines, and extra. Whereas it may be one of many lesser-known areas in Italy, when you uncover its magnificence and culinary riches, you’ll be again.
ALBA: HEARTBEAT OF THE LANGHE
The city of Alba is centrally positioned close to many storied wine areas within the Piemonte area, most notably Barolo and Barbaresco. Wander the quaint streets previous the Piazza Duomo and its bell tower, and it gained’t take you lengthy to note this wine area is residence to 2 different essential components: hazelnuts and truffles. Alba is the white truffle capital of the world, so that you’ll discover shops all over the place devoted to promoting truffles and truffle merchandise, and you’ll anticipate freshly shaved truffles (each summer season and white, relying on the season) on most menus.
HAZELNUT HEAVEN
As you journey by way of the rolling hills of the Piemonte, you’ll be astonished by the variety of hazelnut farms. They’re tucked between vineyards and ramble down from hilltop cities. Discuss to locals, and also you’ll uncover that it’s not unusual for winemakers to transform a few of their land to hazelnuts. Why? Ferrero, which owns mega manufacturers resembling Nutella and Kinder, relies in Alba. And legend is true: early within the morning when the wind is blowing in a sure route, the city of Alba smells like Nutella when hazelnuts are being processed into one in every of our favourite pantry staples. Pure bliss.
Apart from Nutella, you’ll discover chocolate hazelnut spreads and hazelnut flour from artisan producers and hazelnut all the pieces. A few of our favorites: gelato, baci di dama cookies, and bunet, a creamy Piemontese pudding.
Liguria
This beautiful area hugs the Ligurian Sea, the place colourful fishing villages dot the shoreline and lemons droop from timber on terraced hillsides. We have been captivated by the historical past and power in Genoa (Genova) and enchanted by Camogli, Rapallo, Santa Margherita Ligure, and Portofino. All alongside the best way, we discovered a ardour for Genoese pesto, focaccia, farinata, chifferi, and a lot extra.
MEET ENRICA OF A SMALL KITCHEN IN GENOA
Enrica Monzani, a former lawyer turned passionate foodie, leads meals excursions in addition to non-public cooking courses in her residence and shares recipes on her weblog, A Small Kitchen in Genoa. She was a 2016 finalist within the VI World Championship of Pesto al Mortaio, pesto made by hand with a mortar. Join together with her at asmallkitcheningenoa.com or @asmallkitcheningenoa on Instagram.
GENOA: A PORT CITY STEEPED IN HISTORY
The oldest historic middle of Europe, Genoa is thought for its giant port, family-run outlets, and irresistible basil pesto, to call a couple of. Uncover native flavors by searching for previous eateries referred to as sciamadde, the place, since medieval instances, farinata (chickpea tart), castagnaccio (chestnut cake), and polpettone (inexperienced bean and potato casserole) have been baked in shallow copper pans till steaming. In fact, there’s focaccia, too. Cease in a restaurant́, order a cappuccino, and mop your focaccia within the cappuccino—it’s the same old Genoese breakfast!
When in Liguria, you’ll additionally discover countless variations of savory pies, torte di verdura, for which this area holds the file in Italy. Layers of puff pastry are crammed with seasonal greens, recent cheese, eggs, and fragrant herbs and spices. The queen is torta Pasqualina, which hides complete eggs inside and historically seems on tables throughout Easter. —Enrica Monzani
GENOESE FOCACCIA
This famend flatbread has a crispy outdoors, moist inside, dimples, and an extra-virgin olive oil shine. Don’t miss focaccia with onions which might be gently cooked to carry out their sweetness with out caramelizing. —Enrica Monzani
BREAKFAST BRIOCHE
Plan to queue at Pasticceria Tagliafico for a chiffero, a beloved breakfast brioche. Whereas these may resemble croissants, the similarities cease there. Right here, the chifferi are softer and fewer flaky and are crammed with a touch of apricot jam. After baking, they get a brush of easy syrup. —Enrica Monzani
📍 By way of Galata, 31R Genoa
STUNNING CONFECTIONS
This jewel field of a confectionery retailer is a feast for the eyes and people with a candy tooth. Pietro Romanengo is Italy’s oldest famend confectioner, making candy treats since 1780. All the pieces is made in small batches with the best components. Of be aware, you’ll wish to strive quaresimali (standard throughout Lent), marzipan candies, Rosolio Drops, and really something that calls to you.
📍 By way of di Soziglia, 74/76R Genoa
FOCACCIA AL FORMAGGIO DI RECCO
You possibly can’t go away Liguria with out tasting a slice of focaccia al formaggio. The title is deceptive as a result of it’s not a flatbread or what you consider as focaccia. It’s an historical pie that’s product of skinny unleavened dough crammed with a recent native cheese that’s baked in a wooden oven till creamy and melted. The capital of this gluttony is Recco, a small coastal village a couple of kilometers east of Genoa. However you too can style the unique at Revello in Camogli, one of many loveliest small fishing villages in Liguria. Search for the cheese’s label to be hooked up to the new pie, an indication of authenticity. —Enrica Monzani
📍By way of Giuseppe Garibaldi, 183 Camogli
LIGURIAN STREET FOOD
Farinata, a humble chickpea tart relationship again to Roman instances that’s now thought-about road meals, is baked till browned and crispy, reduce whereas nonetheless sizzling, and served in squares. In Rapallo, on the family-owned Pizzeria U Fainottu Du Caruggiu, farinata has been popping out of their oven since 1984.
📍 Vico Fortunio Liceti, 7 Rapallo
PICTURESQUE PORTOFINO
For those who’re searching for a second to decelerate alongside the Italian Riviera and take within the views, Portofino is a protected and picturesque harbor crammed with open-air cafés and boutiques. The drive in alongside steep cliffs that crash into the ocean is breathtaking. You possibly can even hike to Portofino from Santa Margherita Ligure. Whether or not you drive or stroll, it’s the right place to get pleasure from a protracted wine lunch of fried anchovies and trofie al pesto Genoese.
TOSCANA
Arguably essentially the most iconic panorama in Italy, which has been inspiring artists for hundreds of years, Toscana (Tuscany) is acknowledged for its towering cypress timber, hilltop cities, and wealthy coloration palette of gold and sienna. We found new bakeries in bustling Firenze (Florence), strolled the streets, consuming gelato, and admired the magnificence round each nook. In Siena, we have been charmed by the central piazza, duomo, and slim streets twisting by way of this medieval city.
MEET GIULIA OF JULS’ KITCHEN
Giulia Scarpaleggia writes, teaches, and cooks in her household’s Tuscan farmhouse outdoors of Siena, the place she lives together with her photographer husband, Tommaso, and their daughter. Join together with her at julskitchen.com or @julskitchen on Instagram.
BREAKFAST AT BUONAMICI
Pasticceria Buonamici is a historic Florentine bakery within the coronary heart of the Oltrarno neighborhood, which focuses on high quality components and artisanal, conventional manufacturing. The bakery was opened in 1949 by Bruno Buonamici, who realized the artwork of baking whereas working for the famend Pasticceria Robiglio as a toddler. Buonamici is well known for its pistachio cantucci and unbelievable number of Italian croissants and pastries. This is without doubt one of the greatest spots on the town to get pleasure from an Italian breakfast. Seize a cappuccino and custard-filled cornetto, and luxuriate in it standing on the counter, the Italian approach. —Giulia Scarpaleggia
📍By way of dell’Orto, 27R Firenze
GELATO, ALWAYS!
Gelatao: The beloved Italian tackle ice cream. To be thought-about true Italian gelato, the combination will need to have 6% to 10% milk fats, 70% much less air than different ice cream, and extra flavoring. Meaning gelato is denser and richer than different frozen desserts.
Antonio Ciabattoni based Gelateria La Sorbettiera in 2007 together with his spouse, Elisa, and the standard of his artisanal gelato shines by way of in each vibrant, seasonal style, supported by high-quality components and a profound consideration to new tendencies. Right here, you’ll find excellent classics resembling pistachio di Bronte or ingenious creations, such because the lemon and sage sorbet or basil and lime gelato, impressed by Chef Jacque Genin. Get pleasure from a standard waffle cone, fill a brioche together with your favourite taste, or have your gelato as a mattonella, which interprets to “tile,” so assume ice cream sandwich. —Giulia Scarpaleggia
📍Piazza Torquato Tasso, 11R Firenze
PANFORTE PARADISE
Bakers don’t wish to miss Antica Drogheria Manganelli to replenish on all types of Tuscan goodies. As you stroll in, pay attention to the canisters of spices, dried fruit, and nuts behind the counter. Right here, merely inform the pleasant staff how a lot the panforte you intend to bake will weigh and should you choose a lightweight or darkish spice mix. They’ll measure out the quantity of spices, fruit, and nuts you could make this Sienese specialty. It’s also possible to buy superbly wrapped panforte, vin santo, and far more. For Giulia’s Panforte recipe, go to bakefromscratch.com/panforte.
📍By way of di Città 71/73 Siena
SIENESE SPECIALTIES
Locals love Panificio il Magnifico bakery for its pan co’ Santi, a raisin- and walnut-studded spiced bread usually made for All Saints’ Day, and its particular Easter schiacciata, stated to be top-of-the-line on the town. At Christmastime, pan co’ Santi is offered recent every day, together with a focaccia comprised of the identical dough. The remainder of the 12 months, pan co’ Santi is offered solely on Fridays. Along with traditional Sienese Christmas desserts, you’ll additionally discover on a regular basis breads, ciambelloni (doughnuts), cantucci cookies, and truffles like pinolata, panettone, and colombe. —Giulia Scarpaleggia
📍 By way of dei Pellegrini, 27 Siena
