As Ulysse Nardin’s Chief Product Officer Jean- Christophe Sabatier famous in a dialog with us: “The Freak is just not a mainstream product, and it’s not for mainstream individuals. The kind of people who find themselves within the Freak are people who find themselves, occasionally, alone by way of style, a bit avant- garde, they usually dare to be completely different.” Whereas Sabatier’s phrases may slot in fairly properly in an promoting marketing campaign, they aren’t hyperbolic within the least. How can they be when the watch is reputed to have singlehandedly ushered in a brand new period of watchmaking, thrusting it into the twenty first century?
Launched in 2001, the aptly named Freak was the brainchild of Ulysse Nardin’s late proprietor Rolf Schnyder and prodigious watchmaker and physicist Dr. Ludwig Oechslin, and it made headlines for turning centuries-old horology conventions on its head, leading to one thing that the world had by no means seen earlier than. Its avant-garde seems brimmed with revolutionary applied sciences that allowed it to be bereft of the very issues that made a wristwatch: There was no dial to cover the advanced interior workings of its motion, no arms to level out the hours and the minutes, and, most astoundingly, no crown to wind the watch or set the time.
Then, there was the matter of its escapement wheels, made out of silicon, a then-unprecedented materials in watchmaking that triggered fairly a little bit of stir and pooh-poohing from sceptics upon its world debut. In mild of its status right now as the fabric of selection for its varied implausible properties, with manufacturers from Rolex to Patek Philippe highlighting its use of their watches for improved efficiency and reliability, it’s secure to say that Ulysse Nardin has had the final snicker.
Twenty-two years later, the Swiss watch manufacture continues to be laughing on the face of conference. This yr sees Ulysse Nardin persevering with the legend of its horological oddity with a becoming new chapter to encapsulate the gathering’s wealthy heritage: The Freak One, which presents the very best of its two-decade-long historical past in a 44mm titanium case.
The Originators
Touted because the direct descendant of the unique Freak of 2001, the Freak One is Ulysse Nardin’s first launch because it formally regained its independence from the Kering Group on the finish of Could final yr, and it alerts the model’s return to its visionary roots (Sabatier says the corporate will proceed to give attention to the Freak within the close to time period). Nonetheless, it could be remiss to think about the Freak One as only a remake. Ulysse Nardin has filed greater than 20 patents within the final 20 years or so of the gathering’s existence, and this newest creation embodies the very best of that heritage.
The Freak One is regulated by a silicon hairspring that was launched within the Freak Blue Phantom of 2008, and options an escapement that has been handled with DIAMonSIL — a patented artificial diamond and silicon plasma floor therapy that was launched in 2007’s Freak DIAMonSIL — for heightened efficiency.
From 2018’s pivotal Freak Imaginative and prescient comes the patented automated Grinder winding system with a 90-hour energy reserve and added energy-capturing effectivity, due to the oscillator’s connection to 4 blades that remodel even the slightest wrist motion into vitality. The Freak Imaginative and prescient’s comparatively minimalist face and clear legibility codes additionally acquit themselves favourably right here, accompanied by the open gear practice of 2013’s Freak Cruiser, and the 57-component case building of final yr’s Freak S.
As piecemeal as this may occasionally sound, a fast look is all it takes to persuade that the Freak One is not any Frankenstein’s monster. As a substitute, it’s a palimpsest of highlights with well-thought-out proportions and distinctive finishes leading to an entire that’s higher than the sum of its components.
Kind and Perform
Very like its precursors, the Freak One strips away the superfluous to put its motion on the very centre of its creation for the purest expression of horology.
Beneath its motion lies the black engraved barrel cowl that makes a full rotation each 12 hours. This permits it to double up because the hour indicator with a SuperLuminova pointer. Above this lies the minute bridge that helps the uncovered gear practice, the dramatic silicon oscillator, and the orbital flying carrousel tourbillon. The latter makes an entire revolution each 60 minutes and serves a twin perform because the watch’s minute hand with SuperLuminova to mild the best way.
Your entire motion gear practice successfully signifies the minutes, with the minute bridge holding a lot of the wheels suspended over the barrel. One can see for oneself how the complete system works by merely observing the watch because it marks the minutes, which is a marvel for fans of mechanical techniques.
As for the watch’s groundbreaking time-setting system, it’s operated by the bezel, which rotates the complete motion when it’s turned. A lock on the 6 o’clock place prevents the bezel from unintended actions: Elevate the lock to launch the setting system earlier than urgent it again all the way down to lock it into place as soon as the time has been set.
As Sabatier tells us, the Freak One was so named as a result of the model supposed it to be “the one” that epitomises the Freak legend with 20 years of improvements to its title. The model has made good on that promise. Contemplating the Freak’s position in thrusting Ulysse Nardin into the general public’s consideration in 2001, Freak One is a becoming timepiece to mark Ulysse Nardin’s regained independence and the model’s coming full circle as soon as extra.
This text was first printed on WOW Autumn Situation #70
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