Sunday, December 3, 2023
HomeBakingCliff Notes: Cordellia Ann's Potato Rolls

Cliff Notes: Cordellia Ann’s Potato Rolls


Buddies, welcome a particular installment of our Sunday posts.  Cliff Notes is a brand new sequence on Pleasure the Baker, authored by, my favourite baker and my favourite Cliff – MY DAD! Dad is the inspiration behind so most of the classics right here on the weblog.  You already know him and love him for his Chocolate Chip Cookies, Buttermilk Pancakes and naturally the very best Candy Potato Pie on the planet.  With Cliff Notes, Dad dives deep into the household historical past of those recipes and actually, they’re a delight.  I’ve to say, I’ve realized a lot in regards to the particulars of those household recipes as Dad has put these notes collectively.  I hope you take pleasure in this large heat welcome to our Wilson household kitchen.  

With the vacations in full swing, we’d like the right dinner roll to go along with our festive meal. That, pricey mates, is that this pillowy-soft and yeasty delectable that’ll mop up gravy, soften butter until it swims, and slide down the gullet very quickly flat.

Once I was born, my sister Cordellia was sixteen years outdated and coming into her senior yr at Compton Excessive College. I known as her “Dea” once I was studying to speak as a result of Cor-del-lia was too exhausting for me to pronounce. The title caught. Even my mother and father began calling her Dea. Our household lived on Juniper Road in Watts, a southside neighborhood of Los Angeles. Down the highway a bit lived Sam Rodia, a junk collector and folk-art sculptor. For all the time my dad lived in Watts (1920 to 1952), and from the time he married my mom in 1930, Sam Rodia was setting up a towering monument on his 107th Road property. It’s a sequence of interconnected towers (the tallest tower is 100 ft excessive) product of concrete, rebar and wire mesh, and festooned with tiles, glass, bottles, and different objects that he’d discover. Rodia, an Italian immigrant, known as it Nuestro Pueblo (Our Village). Right now, his masterpiece is a historic landmark often called the Watts Towers. Two years earlier than Sam accomplished Nuestro Pueblo, Dea graduated from Compton Junior Faculty, and we moved right into a home nearer to UCLA the place she’d begin within the fall.  It was on Victoria Avenue, and was beforehand the residence of the Consul Normal of Panama. Whereas residing on Victoria, Mom attended evening college and gave the duty of constructing dinners to her two daughters—20-year-old Dea and 18-year-old Dede. For Thanksgiving and Christmas, Mom would present Dea make her potato dinner rolls. Dea took copious notes making an attempt to maintain up, making an attempt to deliver order to Mom’s instinctive “add-a-little-this-and-a-little-that.” Therefore, they grew to become often called “Cordellia Ann’s Rolls” as a result of she created a 6-page manifesto of measurements and directions that she adopted reliably. Nevertheless, for the remainder of us, her detailed recipe was as intimidating as an auto restore handbook. Kudos to Pleasure for simplifying it and making it user-friendly.

Eunice Wallace, 1920’s.

So how on this planet did these pillows of heaven develop into so coveted within the Wilson family? I might say as a sensible matter that Mom concocted the notion of utilizing mashed potatoes, an ample staple, to bulk out the flour due to a rise in wheat costs throughout wartime. However the flour/potato combo shouldn’t be an authentic thought; it has been a supply of breadmaking within the Netherlands and Eire for eons. The truth is, Mom was taught make these rolls by her mother-in-law, Eunice Wallace—a superb cook dinner in her personal proper. I by no means had the privilege of assembly my grandmother; she had handed away 10 years earlier than I used to be born. However Mrs. Wallace, because the household respectfully known as her, was a legend within the Wilson family. She had cooked for L. B. Taylor, proprietor of C. A. Taylor Trunk Works of Chicago, at his dwelling on the town and his summer time residence in West Gouldsboro, Maine. Finally, after my dad graduated from Peoria Excessive College in 1919, she started working for Katherine Thorne, widow of former Vice President of Montgomery Ward. Mrs. Thorne had simply married bond dealer and bon vivant Billy Camp, and the 2 frolicked between their dwelling in Chicago and their bungalow on the Beverly Hills Resort. They introduced my dad and grandmother to California, and Mrs. Wallace cooked on the dinner events they hosted for his or her film mates. I’m positive these melt-in-your-mouth dinner rolls had been an integral a part of the meals. Typically I think about what it will’ve been like witnessing Mary Pickford passing a basket of rolls to Douglas Fairbanks; or Norma Talmadge and Mabel Normand daintily nibbling their tender rolls whereas they chatted; or Buster Keaton and Fatty Arbuckle tossing rolls throughout the desk in a fierce juggling match.

Felicia Could (Dede) Wilson and Cordellia Ann (Dea) Wilson

Cordellia Ann’s scrumptious namesake has a legacy that spans greater than 100 years, handed down from chef to chef to chef. Now, due to Pleasure the Baker, it continues. This vacation season, fill your breadbasket with these sizzling, comforting delights of sheer loveliness and see how briskly they disappear. Assured, Mrs. Wallace might be smiling on all of you.

This recipe requires Lively Dry Yeast. Dea and Mom used recent yeast, also called “moist” yeast, for these superior rolls. However right this moment, moist yeast, which is available in 2-ounce truffles, is slightly tough to seek out. The extra accessible and longer lasting yeast is dry yeast. The baking outcomes are the identical. In case you occur upon the cake yeast and, simply out of curiosity, wish to attempt it, crumble one-third of a cake for this recipe into heat water and stir such as you would with the dry yeast. And keep in mind, don’t be intimidated. Pleasure will at all times be there to guarantee you that it’s not that sophisticated.

Take pleasure in!

xo Cliff

Discover the recipe for Cordellia Ann’s Potato Rolls right here! 

Learn Dad’s different Cliff Notes on his Candy Potato Pie and Buttermilk Biscuits.

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