Ulla Johnson was again at Brooklyn’s Powerhouse Arts constructing Sunday morning, this time staging a collection-inspired, shadow-casting sculpture by Andrew Ondrejcak and Abby Cheney, in the course of the room.
“As we had been placing the set up along with the gathering, I wished this heat, enveloping, embryonic feeling,” Johnson stated backstage of her stunning fall assortment, which surprisingly (and delightfully) included males on her runway for the primary time.
She clarified the lads’s seems had been really girls’s, and tied into the gathering’s exploration of slouchy versus boxy shapes; boyish cuts versus accentuating, and revealing the physique in a manner that’s by no means vulgar. “It was extra about exploring why there may be this synthetic boundary between womenswear and menswear when there’s a lot that may transfer simply between,” she defined, noting the lads in her orbit who’ve been carrying her girls’s designs for years.
All through the autumn lineup Johnson handled conventional tropes of paisley, lace, crepes, menswear pin-striped suiting and corsetry in her signature sudden, artisanal methods, as seen by way of robust paisley hand-crochet dressing and comfy Truthful Isle knits; a black crochet turtleneck with an artfully graphic black-and-white embellished slim skirt; unrestricted tailoring, and sensual clothes.
Heat was entrance and heart by way of standout intarsia shearling outerwear, whereas daytime utility stemmed from advanced denim and complex leather-based layers. As well as, she continued to broaden her deal with sportif performance with femininity via Okay-Means collaborative, waterproof blurred ikat kinds whereas pushing monochrome layers and knitwear exploration in Milton Avery-inspired saturated hues. For example, the show-opening purple felted wool, ruffle detailed gown; simple jersey clothes with “distorted” little white edges, or a non-knit, caped trenchcoat.
The gathering’s sense of fluidity and ease flowed via eveningwear — an impactful crushed gold metallic pleated robe catching the sunshine because it floated down the runway.
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