I am a comparatively latest convert to cordovan, however have come to find it irresistible as I’ve began to put on extra informal clothes, and darker colors.
It additionally added a layer of affection visiting the Horween tannery in Chicago final 12 months (proven beneath). That’s value a learn for element on what cordovan really is – extra a membrane than a pores and skin – and the work that goes into tanning it.
Should you don’t personal cordovan, or have been postpone by it prior to now, I’d put ahead two main arguments.
First, its look and color (significantly ‘color 8’ from Horween) is uniquely capable of bridge informal and formal clothes. The one factor that comes shut is suede, and that’s by no means fairly as sensible.
And second, it’s robust and just about waterproof. That’s one thing I feel might be significantly enticing to males going ahead, as they more and more cut up time between dwelling and work, city and nation.
I didn’t put on cordovan for years.
I feel the most important factor that put me off most was simply that standard, calf leather-based appeared extra thrilling. It produced the next polish, seemed sleeker, and aged in a method that produced extra variation in colors and textures.
Cordovan at all times appeared somewhat uninteresting by comparability. However it’s this uninteresting glow, this refined character that I feel appeals extra to me now. Simply as fancy patinas have misplaced all allure, so cordovan has gained it.
Cordovan is a thicker and extra oiled leather-based than calf, and consequently ripples greater than wrinkles. Because it isn’t a pores and skin, it doesn’t have a prime layer, and so can look virtually shadowy, with colors floating beneath the floor.
You additionally get a pleasant distinction between onerous smoothness the place there may be reinforcement within the shoe – just like the toe and heel – and a extremely textured color change the place it bends.
It’s this texture within the creases that I feel make it bridge formal and informal clothes.
As a result of cordovan is shiny – it has a pure shine, and one which comes shortly again with buffing – it ought to be somewhat sensible. Certainly, historically it was thought-about a proper leather-based, to put on with tailoring somewhat than denim.
However these creases make cordovan seem like it’s 20 years outdated, virtually from the primary put on. And this heavy, characterful creasing is what provides cordovan sneakers such an informal really feel.
The loafers proven above – my Alden full-straps on the Aberdeen final – look virtually black on this mild. Certainly, some readers thought they had been black, once they noticed the latest checks put up that featured them.
However black-calf loafers would look fully totally different, and be a lot tougher to put on with denim. It’s the oiled, worn-in look of cordovan that makes them work.
The color is especially interesting too. As Nick Horween advised us on that tannery go to, this ‘color 8’ makes up about 65% of their cordovan manufacturing.
Nevertheless, Alden additionally put an additional coat on their cordovan once they obtain it, making their color 8 barely darker and deeper. And it’s a shade I desire – you may see the distinction in my Vass pair above.
Some individuals describe color 8 as burgundy, however for me it’s a lot nearer to a mixture of purple and black. When it creases, the paler color that comes up is sort of a pale purple or pink (which is shocking for some, and I do know places some off).
The purple/black color is darkish sufficient to go together with a number of supplies and kinds of trousers, from denim to flannels. However additionally it is completely distinctive – the sort of factor you recognise instantly on another person strolling down the road.
I’ve seen and worn many sneakers over time that had been known as burgundy, oxblood, or one thing comparable, however I at all times felt they’d nothing to suggest them over black or brown. Color 8 does.
The opposite widespread objection to cordovan is that it’s stiff, and takes a very long time to put on in.
It’s actually thicker than calf. However I’ve not discovered it often takes lengthy to put on in – now not, actually, than the soles you get on loads of English sneakers. And I’ve by no means actually needed to begin carrying them just some hours a day – once more, not like some calf sneakers.
Cordovan can really feel heavy, actually. My Alden Norwegian bluchers really feel considerably heavier than, say, calf Dovers from Edward Inexperienced. However the sole is thicker too.
One factor that’s actually true, is that cordovan will be significantly uncomfortable if the shoe is simply too tight. I lately purchased a pair of Alden Jumper boots (Barrie final, beneath) and so they had been snug from day one. However the full-strap loafers pictured right here can pinch horribly.
The explanation for that’s I went with a narrower final than is commonplace (the Aberdeen, somewhat than the Van). This was not straightforward, and required a visit to the Madison Avenue retailer in New York.
The explanation I did that was that I’d at all times discovered the basic Van-last loafers to be too chunky for me. They only don’t go together with the fashion of trousers I put on.
You possibly can see that in these photos with my Blackhorse Lane denim. A jean with a leg that slim seems foolish with a standard Alden idler on the underside. Effective with wider legs, maybe some workwear-like chinos. However in any other case no.
It was an excellent resolution in that the loafers look pretty. And so they really feel pretty for many of the day. However after 5 – 6 hours of being out and about on the town, they begin to damage. It’s one thing I’ll take a look at correcting in some unspecified time in the future, maybe by stretching them somewhat.
For now, I’d suggest going for a extra snug match with cordovan, in case you have the possibility. It’s not an Alden factor, by the best way – it’s the identical with my Edward Inexperienced black cordovan (proven beneath).
Talking of black, I purchased these EG loafers in black cordovan largely for its toughness, but it surely doesn’t have the identical variation as color 8, and subsequently allure.
As to different colors, I haven’t tried the ‘whisky’ color, or darkish brown, however I want to at some stage. I feel I’ve simply been so attracted by the distinctive look of color 8 that I’ve at all times gone for extra kinds in that very same color, as a substitute.
How one can look after cordovan
Cordovan is, usually, simpler to take care of than calf. It advantages massively from brushing, and from buffing (rubbing).
A quick brush is not going to solely take away filth, however the friction will construct up warmth that brings again oils and shine to the leather-based. I like to recommend doing it after each put on, when you can.
Rubbing it vigorously has an identical impact, and produces extra of a shine. I like to recommend doing so – with a material – earlier than you put on them or if you need them to look significantly good.
A small quantity of cream each few weeks will help soften the leather-based, and feed it, however don’t use an excessive amount of otherwise you’ll get white marks within the creases. Bear in mind it’s already fairly oily.
And cordovan is actually waterproof, as a result of it doesn’t endure any long-term injury from being splashed or soaked. Splashes can produce white marks (welts) however the remedies above cope with these.
Lastly, even scratches and nicks will be rubbed out to an extent, with the assistance of a deer bone (proven above, at Ludwig Reiter). It’s not one thing I take advantage of myself actually, largely as a result of I like these indicators of wear and tear, and once more most are handled by brushing and buffing.
For a extra detailed breakdown of those steps, with illustrations, Jesper has a superb information right here.
There are heaps extra issues let’s imagine about cordovan: different tanneries, whether or not the additional expense is value it, the actual prices of shopping for Alden in Europe for the time being. However I’ll depart these for one more put up, or certainly the remark dialogue beneath.
